A whip or flogger is as personal as the person who uses it. There are a wide variety of whips, floggers and other implements to choose from, each one having a unique feel in the hand and on the skin. The following are some features to consider when purchasing a whip: Balance and Weight An important feature of any whip is that it is well-balanced and comfortable in the hand, especially if it is to be used for long periods of time. A perfectly balanced whip should poise evenly on a fingertip with the fulcrum at the lash end of the handle. This reduces strain on the wrist, arm and shoulder as the natural pivot of the whip will be at that point. Minimal effort is required to keep the whip in a smooth and steady 'figure 8' stroke when the whip is well balanced. Some people prefer a whip that is handle-heavy, but this throws the piece out of balance and makes additional demands on the strength of the user. The diameter of the handle is also very important, and choice depends on the size of the hand wielding the piece. A slender handle will provide a stable and comfortable grip for a smaller hand, while a thick handle can cause cramping and muscle strain for the same hand. A whip handle should feel comfortable and secure in a light but firm grip. A good 'rule of thumb' for sizing is to hold the handle securely, wrapping your thumb around over the fingers (although this is not recommended as a grip). The thumb should reach the first knuckle of the middle finger on a properly sized handle. When you are holding the piece for use, the thumb should lie at a comfortable angle (approximately 45 degrees) to the vertical axis of the handle. Your own personal preference may be for a different diameter handle - always choose what feels best to you. Lashes The lashes or 'falls' are the working end of the whip, and vary widely. Everything from string and rope to chain and wire have been used for lashes. For our purposes, we will deal primarily with the effects of leather lashes. Flat lashes Flat lashes are even strips of leather of various widths, lengths and dressed ends. Generally a wider lash will give more of a "thud" and a narrower lash will have more sting. The length chosen depends not only on the preference of the user and the space available for use, but the control and effect desired. Longer lashes require not only more space for use, but a higher degree of control to maintain an even strike. The ends of longer lashes will be moving faster upon impact, and thus create a more intense sensation. Longer lashes are also good for "wrapping" - letting the lash ends wrap around the body at the culmination of the stroke. Cutting the ends (or "dressing them) can also alter the effect of the stroke. Angled, pointed and "forked" ends result in more of a stinging sensation at the lash end. Rounded or square cut ends provide a softer finish. Flat Braided Lashes These lashes are a wider lash, braided in the traditional three-strand style. Sensations' pieces are either braided with the ends intact (rather than cut and sealed) or completed with a finish knot. This creates a more secure end for longer wear. The effect of flat braiding is to create a heavier, somewhat rougher lash with a beautiful aesthetic appearance and orderly flow to the stroke. Round Braided Lashes Round braided lashes are made in four or six narrow strips of leather creating a lash with a circular circumference. The lashes are then worked and smoothed, resulting in a dense, smoothly finished lash that is very supple. Lashes braided in narrow strips of kangaroo have a hard, polished finish, are exceptionally smooth and supple. Lashes braided in heavy suede cannot be polished and often have nubby edges notable for leaving rows of fingertip-type bruises. Lashes can be braided in a wide variety of materials, for varying degrees of effect. Round braids may be finished with smooth, rounded ends or tied off in a small, hard round knot called a Turk's head. If knotted, the strand ends may be further splayed and angled for additional sensation, or trimmed and turned into the finish knot. Knots may also be braided into the lash at various intervals to create a knotted scourge. Appearance You may choose a black whip of severe lines for the harsh psychological effect, or something trimmed in animal fur, horn or hoof for something a little more barbaric. A whip may be a romantic expression or a fun piece, and chosen for the aesthetic beauty of its color and intricate workmanship. Whatever style of handle and fall you choose, the whip is ultimately an expression of the owner's personal style. A Little About Leathers The effect a whip produces depends a great deal on the type of leather used in the falls. Leather is a natural product that varies by animal and by the weight of the hide. Heavier leather is thicker, denser hide. The characteristics of the leather vary widely depending on the original animal and the type of tanning and processing. The following are some of the typical characteristics of various kinds of leather and suede: Deerskin -- A soft, supple, elastic skin that is also highly durable. Deerskin also has the widest sensation "range" of most leather, the effect depending largely on the intensity and style of the stroke. Latigo -- Latigo is a heavy, all weather leather often used for tack and other equestrian needs. It is heavy cow hide that is oil-tanned to make it weather resistant. Lashes are harder and stiffer than most other kinds of leather resulting in a high level of sensation. Latigo is often used for collars, cuffs, paddles and straps, as well as whips. Cow -- Cow hide varies the most widely in weight and processing. It is strong and durable either as a leather or a suede, and when processed as "nubuck" or for gloving, can closely resembles deer. Calf -- A finer grain than cowhide, this leather is distinguished by an exceptional suppleness that comes from young hides Cabretta -- Cabretta is made from the skin of a sheep (sometimes also goat), and although it is a medium thickness, it is less dense and very soft. Italian cabretta in particular has a lovely sensual touch and delivers a very soft sensation. Although somewhat expensive, a cabretta whip makes an excellent starter piece for those new to the life or a lovely, sensual piece for lighter play. Kidskin -- Made from the skin of a young goat, kidskin is very thin. The usual tanning process also makes it rather stiff. Hides are small, so lash length is limited. Pigskin -- As a whole grain leather, it is of light-to medium weight, unless split and sueded in which case it is very light. Pigskin is generally a very soft leather, something between cabretta and deer. Elk -- A heavy, dense leather suitable which creates a deep, thudding sensation. It often resembles latigo, but is noticeable softer to the touch. Buffalo -- A very heavy, very dense and often rough hide. Kangaroo -- A thin, flexible leather very suitable for use in narrow round braids Water Buffalo -- A very thick hide with a deep, heavy grain, often used for furniture (although it makes an interesting lash!) Definitions Aniline leather -- Full grain leather that is dyed in the vat. Its transparent finish is achieved with organic, synthetic compounds. This finish, used only on the most beautiful hides, protects the true nature of the leather Candle Touch -- In tannery jargon it is used to describe leathers that are particularly "oily" to the touch. Chrome Salts -- A tanning medium used since the early 20th century to make the leather supple and very resistant Curing -- The first treatment given to the leather, consisting of soaking, graining, liming and fleshing Currying -- The final transformation of leather into finished leather in a seven step process: drying, splitting, polishing, staking, boarding, dying and lubrication. Dermis -- The top layer of the cow's skin. Includes the hair and skin Dyed through -- When the drying process occurs in the vat and is absorbed all the way through the skin and not just on the surface Finish -- Often reserved for aniline leathers, its natural look creates a sophisticated and modern look. Satin -- Most leathers have a satin finish, that can be integrated with many types of decoration. Shiny -- A finish often reserved for buffalo or very thick leathers, has a very authentic look. Full grain -- During the splitting process, the grain is separated from the "split". The grain is the top part of the skin. Only the most beautiful skins will be called "full grain". Full grain leathers show all the natural imperfections (inset bites, folds in the skin, small scars...) that make them unique and authentic. To recognize full grain leather, just use a magnifying glass to see the pores of the skin. Hides that are too marked to be called full grain, will become 'rectified grain' leathers. Grained leather -- The grain of the leather can be achieved naturally or artificially. The natural grain comes from rubbing the hides in a vat, a process that respects the natural fiber of leather. Artificial grain is obtained be imprinting with heat directly on the leather. Hand finished leather -- Leather in which an aniline based coloring solution is applied by hand, giving the surface a mottled and slightly satiny finish. Nubuck -- Leather that has a velvety touch achieved by light brushing and buffing. To preserve the suppleness of the nubuck, only first quality, young hides are used. This leather is available in a wide range of colors. Reconstituted -- leather Made from woven and crushed leather scraps. Cannot be compared to an authentic leather. (Note: Reconstituted leather is not used in our products) Rectified grain -- Grain split leather that cannot be used in its natural state as it is excessively marked; the defects are concealed by buffing and then by a pigment polish. Split leather -- During the splitting process, the "split" is separated from the top grain. It is the part underneath the skin, corresponding to the flesh. the fibers are supple, the touch is velvety. Splitting -- Mechanical operation that is part of the currying process. Its purpose is to obtain leather of equal thickness by separating it into two (or more) parts, the "grain" and the split". Sun and moon -- Since leather is still a living material, the color treatments are never reversible. It is suggested that leather never be exposed to prolonged periods of sunlight or moonlight. Tanning -- Prevents the hide from rotting and eliminates the risks of decomposition of the tissue. The process occurs after curing using vegetable tannins. There are two types of tanning: Mineral - using mineral products, mainly chromium salts and vegetable - using organic products, primarily vegetable tannins. Thickness -- A thickness gauge is used to determine the final thickness of the leather. The thickness can vary even on the same hide depending on which part is measured. Vat -- A tank that turns on a shaft, used for chrome salt tanning, dying and lubrication of the leather. Weight -- Weight is measured in ounces per square foot. Lightweight leathers are approximately 2-3 oz, medium approximately 4-5 oz, and heavy leathers are approximately 6-7 oz. Wild leather -- Leather used in its untanned state. It is treated with fluorine or silicone products that are applied in a vat or sprayed on. Care and Feeding of Your New Toy Always store your whip by letting it hang freely so that the lashes drop vertically from the end of the handle. This will keep the lashes smooth, untangled and wrinkle free. Creases in most leathers will hang out naturally within a 24 hours or so and require no further treatment. We strongly urge that suedes and light colors be treated with a leather or suede protectant. Most shoe stores or shoe repair shops will carry something appropriate. Do not use a protectant that is not spcifically designed for leather or suede. To clean suede, we recommend Lincoln E-Z cleaner and a suede brush. We were surprised to see how well it cleans grime from even the lightest colors and whites. This product is carried in many shoe repair stores. Grain leathers will eventually become dry, cracked and brittle without care. There are a number of products available to keep your leathers supple and conditioned, again often available at shoe repair stores. These products should be used on grain and finished leathers only, do not apply them to suedes. With use, leather will naturally stretch, and the lashes on your piece may become uneven and require dressing. This is a natural process of use, and should not be considered a defect in the piece. You may dress the ends yourself with a sharp blade